Market dispatch·Geneva
Queen Mary's 1928 Pearl Necklace Returns to Market After 40 Years at Phillips Geneva
Phillips' Geneva Jewels Auction: VII on 9 November is led by a 1.35-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond and a 16.40-carat Kashmir sapphire, each estimated at $2.2–3.5 million, while a pearl necklace commissioned by Queen Mary in 1928 returns to auction for the first time since 1986.

Phillips holds its seventh Geneva jewels sale on 9 November at the Hôtel President Wilson, with viewing from 4 to 9 November after highlights toured New York, Singapore, Paris, London and Taipei. The sale pairs rare coloured stones with jewels whose histories stretch across three generations of the British royal family, and it is the second edition to include a dedicated Collections and Provenance section.
Two lots share the top estimate of $2,200,000 to $3,500,000 each. One is a 1.35-carat Fancy Vivid Blue brilliant-cut diamond, a grade Phillips highlights for its exceptional colour saturation. The other is a 16.40-carat Kashmir sapphire ring, offered unheated. Kashmir stones run through the sale: a late-19th-century Rozet and Fischmeister brooch-pendant set with an 18.69-carat sugarloaf cabochon is estimated at $1,000,000–1,500,000, and a 5.62-carat Kashmir ring from a French noble family at $150,000–250,000. An unheated 4.74-carat Burma ruby and a 7.96-carat Colombian emerald brooch complete the gemstone offering.
The provenance section is anchored by a cultured pearl and diamond necklace commissioned by Queen Mary from the London jeweller Hennell in 1928. Mary asked Hennell to reproduce the Golden Jubilee Necklace given to Queen Victoria in 1888, a jewel she greatly admired. The reproduction holds twenty-one cultured pearls graduating from about 5.85 to 13.50 millimetres, set with circular-cut diamonds in an openwork floral and trefoil design. Mary later gave it to her niece, Mary Somerset, Duchess of Beaufort, and it has remained in private hands since it last sold in 1986. It is estimated at $150,000–220,000. The original Victoria necklace was later worn by Elizabeth II for her first State Opening of Parliament in 1952.
Signed jewels from the great maisons fill out the sale, including a Van Cleef and Arpels Liz sautoir estimated at $245,000–365,000 and a pair of Harry Winston Colombian emerald and diamond earrings at $730,000–1,090,000. A gold and gem-set cross from the collection of dancer Rudolf Nureyev is estimated at $2,000–3,000. Phillips' jewellery head, Benoît Repellin, said the selection reflects the breadth of the market today, from rare coloured diamonds to pieces with significant noble provenance.


